Advances in nanotechnology-based hair care products applied to hair shaft and hair scalp disorders.

OBJECTIVE: Nanotechnology has been intensively applied to the development of novel cosmetic products for hair and scalp care during the last decades. Such a trend is corroborated by the fact that about 19% of the total nanocosmetics registered in the StatNano database are intended for hair and scalp care. Nanotechnology-enabled formulations based on nanoparticles, cyclodextrins, liposomes and nanoemulsions have emerged as novel approaches due to chemical stability and their controlled release. Regarding hair care formulations, nanocarriers can target the hair shaft, hair follicle and scalp. Therefore, they have been used to treat several hair disorders, including dandruff and other hair-damaging conditions. METHODS: This review addressed the most important nanocarriers applied to hair-related disorders improvement. Furthermore, the application for hair photoprotection and improvement of hair colour duration by nanotechnological formulations is also approached. Besides, we provided an overview of the current scenario of available nano-based commercial hair products and novel patented inventions. RESULTS: From the patent search, the Patent Cooperation Treaty was pointed as the most important depositing agency while the United States of America has been the most depositing country. On the contrary, according to the StatNano database, Brazil stands out in the hair care worldwide market, and it is also the main producer of hair cosmetics based on nanotechnology. CONCLUSION: As nano-based products offer several advantages over conventional cosmetics, it is expected that in future, there will be more research on nanocarriers applied to hair disorders, as well as commercial products and patent applications.

Au cours des dernières décennies, les nanotechnologies ont été intensivement appliquées au développement de nouveaux produits cosmétiques pour le soin des cheveux et du cuir chevelu. Cette tendance est corroborée par le fait qu'environ 19% du nombre total de nano-cosmétiques enregistrés dans la base de données StatNano sont destinés à la fois aux soins des cheveux et du cuir chevelu. Les formulations basées sur les nanoparticules, les cyclodextrines, les liposomes et les nano-émulsions sont devenues de nouvelles approches grâce à l'amélioration de la stabilité chimique des médicaments et des ingrédients actifs cosmétiques et à leur libération contrôlée. En ce qui concerne les formulations de soins capillaires, les nanocarriers peuvent cibler le follicule pileux, la tige des cheveux et du cuir chevelu. Par conséquent, ils ont été utilisés pour traiter plusieurs troubles capillaires, notamment les pellicules et d'autres affections capillaires. Dans cette revue, les nano-carriers les plus importants appliqués à l'amélioration des troubles liés aux cheveux ont été abordés. L'application pour la photoprotection des cheveux et l'amélioration de la durée de la couleur des cheveux par des formulations nanotechnologiques est également abordée. En outre, nous fournissons un aperçu du scénario actuel des produits capillaires commerciaux à base des nanotechnologies disponibles et des nouvelles inventions brevetées. D'après la recherche de brevets, le Traité de coopération en matière de brevets a été désigné comme l'agence de dépôt la plus importante, tandis que les États-Unis d'Amérique ont été le pays le plus déposant. Diversement, le Brésil se distingue sur le marché mondial des soins capillaires et il est aussi le principal producteur de cosmétiques capillaires basés sur les nanotechnologies. Par conséquent, comme les produits à base de nanotechnologies offrent plusieurs avantages par rapport aux cosmétiques conventionnels, on s'attend à ce que les recherches sur les nano-carriers appliqués aux troubles capillaires se multiplient à l'avenir, de même que les produits commerciaux et les demandes de brevets.

Screening of avocado oil nanoformulations intended to skin delivery / Análisis de nanoformulaciones de aceite de aguacate para aplicación cutánea

INTRODUCTION: vegetable ingredients are increasingly common in skin products. Avocado oil is an ingredient of natu¬ral sources with various properties on the skin. In this work, crude avocado oil-loaded nanocapsules were evaluated regarding its physicochemical stability to obtain a formulation of skin delivery with adequate quality: suitable physi¬cochemical stability, with low polydispersity and with a pH suitable for cutaneous application. METHOD: nanoparticle formulations with components variation were evaluated for 2 months. Nanoparticle formu¬lation considered the most stable was further evaluated for 6 months. Furthermore, the oxidative stability of crude avocado oil loaded in nanocapsules and standard avocado oil was also performed to detect any sign of oil oxidation. RESULTS: all formulations had negative zeta potential after 2 months of storage. pH values of nanoparticles remained stable throughout the test. Formulation with the lowest content of ingredients exhibited the highest stability after 2 months of storage. Nanoencapsulated avocado oil and crude avocado oil showed no evidence of oxidation. CONCLUSIONS: Aqueous dispersions with the lowest content of ingredients presented the best physicochemical sta¬bility. Therefore, we have demonstrated preliminary the feasibility of developing avocado-oil loaded nanocapsules

INTRODUCCIÓN: los ingredientes vegetales son cada vez más comunes en los productos para la piel. El aceite de aguacate es un ingrediente de origen natural con varias propiedades en la piel. En este trabajo se evaluó la estabilidad físico-química de las nanocápsulas cargadas con aceite de aguacate crudo para obtener una formulación de aplicación cutánea con calidad adecuada: estabilidad físico química adecuada, con baja polidispersidad y con pH adecuado para aplicación cutánea. MÉTODO: formulaciones de nanocápsulas con variación en la composición de los ingredientes fueron evaluadas durante 2 meses. La formulación de nanocápsulas considerada más estable se evaluó por 6 meses. Además, la estabilidad oxidativa del aceite de aguacate de las nanocápsulas y del aceite de aguacate estándar también fue evaluada para detectar cualquier signo de oxidación. RESULTADOS: todas las formulaciones han tenido potencial zeta negativo después de 2 meses de almacenamiento. Los valores de pH de las nanopartículas se mantuvieron estables durante toda la prueba. La formulación con el contenido más bajo de ingredientes exhibió la mayor estabilidad después de 2 meses de almacenamiento. El análisis de aceite de aguacate crudo y del aceite de aguacate nanoencapsulado no mostró evidencia de oxidación. CONCLUSIONES: la dispersión acuosa con el contenido más bajo de ingredientes presentó la mejor estabilidad fisicoquímica. Además, el aceite de aguacate no ha mostrado evidencia de oxidación. Por lo tanto, hemos demostrado preliminarmente la viabilidad de desarrollar nanocápsulas cargadas de aceite de aguacate

Multifunctional Cosmetic Containing Blueberry and Tinosorb M®-Loaded Microparticles Improves Sunscreen Performance.

Purpose: We aimed to evaluate the effect of blueberry extract and microparticles (MP) on sunscreen performance of multifunctional cosmetics. Octocrylene (OCT), benzophenone-3 (BENZ-3) and Tinosorb® M (MBBT) were employed as UV filters. Methods: An in-silico modeling was used to determine the UV filters concentrations to obtain high values of sunscreen protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF). MBBT and blueberry-loaded microparticles (MPMB+B) and MBBT-loaded microparticles (MPMBBT) were prepared by spray-drying. OCT and BENZ-3 were added in the oil phase of cosmetics. Cosmetics A and B contained MPMB+B and MPMBBT, respectively, and cosmetic C was prepared without MP. Characterization, physicochemical stability and in vitro SPF was performed. UV filters distribution in human stratum corneum (SC) for each cosmetic was performed. Anti-oxidant activity of blueberry extract was evaluated. Results: Sunscreen combination with the highest SPF was selected for formulations. Formulations A and B maintained their rheological behavior over time, unlike formulation C. In-vitro SPFs for formulations A, B and C were 51.0, 33.7 and 49.6, respectively. We also developed and validated a method for analysis of the UV filters by HPLC/ PDA suitable for the in-vivo assay. In Tape stripping test, MBBT showed SC distribution similar for all cosmetic formulations. OCT and BENZ-3 distribution to formulation A and C was also similar. Blueberry extract showed antioxidant capacity of 16.71 µg/mL equivalent to vitamin C. Conclusion: Cosmetics containing MPs presented better physical stability. Blueberry increased the photoprotective capacity of the formulations and added extra benefits due to its anti-oxidant and anti-aging properties.